Four days holiday and super winter weather – ideal time for outdoor activity.
The NH8 was busy with heavy trucks trudging along and light vehicles zipping around them. The Ahura Dhaba at Talasari was brimming with people; traffic on the Golden Gate Bridge was slow. Missed the exit for the Sardar Patel Ring Road from NE1 and ended up in messy city traffic in Ahmedabad. Took me almost an hour to get to the turnoff for Sanand on the SH17.
Gujarat Police energetically frisked the vehicle for booze as soon as I got off the NE1 and were sourly disappointed when they found none.
SH17 around Sanand was slow owing to city traffic but opened up to super tarmac soon after. Spent the night at Hotel Pam Inn just outside Sanand on the SH17.
Early next morning at 630 it was still dark, slightly chilly, the tarmac was super, the traffic sparse and road more or less straight with open country on either side. While the moon was still shining in front, the RVM showed signs of the sun starting to rise. Raced a passenger train running on the tracks alongside the SH17 for a short distance.
Zipped past Viramgam and turned right at Maval (SH7) for Bajana on the SH19. About 8 in the morning I was at the Forest Reception Centre at Bajana that issues the permit for entry into the Wild Ass Sanctuary. The permit cost me Rs. 500/- for the vehicle and Rs. 200/- for the camera and was issued for a 4 hour period. The lady at the Centre helped me find a guide – a college kid who knew his way around the sanctuary.
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| Big Jeep in the Little Rann of Kutch |
I was really glad to have got the permit to drive my own Thar CRDe into the Rann and super enjoyed the off-road experience – open parched land in front, some bumpy sections where the high GC of the Jeep helped, some soggy sections that required a 4x4 and the dust column in the RVM on a zippy section.
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| Common Crane |
The crawl ability of the Jeep came in handy – leave the vehicle in second gear, no need to touch the clutch or accelerator and the vehicle trudges along, which leaves you free to watch wildlife around.
The Guide pointed out the sections for Birding and Gudkhur - Indian Wild Ass.
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| Gudkhur - Indian Wild Ass |
Chanced upon a Jungle Cat calmly walking away from me through the shrubs, its ears alert and tightly turned in my direction.
I was amazed with the mirage effect in the Little Rann. Far ahead I could see a water line, when I drove up, there was no water. When I looked back, I could see water around the point where I had started from!
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| Mirage - That Water isn't there! |
Checked into Bhanvna Farms, just ahead of Patdi.
- The cottages are decent.
- Food is just about ok.
- Be sure to be around as soon as the buffet is laid out else you’ll have to make do with cold food.
- They tend to push their ‘Package’ for stay and safari.
- They answered evasively when I tried to check with them if I could take my own vehicle for the Safari.
- The cottages are decent.
- Food is just about ok.
- Be sure to be around as soon as the buffet is laid out else you’ll have to make do with cold food.
- They tend to push their ‘Package’ for stay and safari.
- They answered evasively when I tried to check with them if I could take my own vehicle for the Safari.
Other options like Rann Riders and Desert Coursers where fully booked.
Evening, I found my way around Sasda village to the Nava Talav. Kept the Nuvi GPS handy (it marks the route you’ve taken to help return) as it’s easy to lose sense of direction in the vast expanse of the dry land.
From the birding point of view, the Little Rann was a little disappointing. I guess scant rainfall / delayed winter meant fewer winter visitors settling down here.
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| Greater Short-toed Lark |
Rolled into a sticky situation while roaming around the Nava Talav area that sent my heart pounding. The rear wheels just sank into the soft mud. Technique kicked in immediately. Shifted to neutral, engaged the 4H and slowly accelerated into the fist gear. In about 2 seconds, I was out.
Late evening again the setting sun and the rising moon opposite each other was nothing short of magical.
Early next day pushed off to the Thol Bird Sanctuary. Around the Malvan turnoff, I was just about ruminating about not seeing a Nightjar at the Little Rann when one just glided past the bonnet!
Got some good directions from a local at Sachana and took the left across the railway track at Khoda Village along the SH17 a little short of Sanand.
The lake at the Thol sanctuary, I believe is manmade and is pretty recent. The water body didn’t show up on the Nuvi which has an old map.
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| Common Kingfisher |
The entry to the sanctuary cost Rs. 500/- for the vehicle and Rs. 200/- for the camera.
I was pleasantly surprised to see the vibrant bird life here. I guess the large water body surrounded by vegetation and a largely agri area attracts the avian fauna.
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| Yellow-crowned Woodpecker |
Tip
– Get here early as college crowd from around comes here for interests other than birding!
– Carry adequate food and water as the canteen inside serves only tea and some soft drinks.
– Get here early as college crowd from around comes here for interests other than birding!
– Carry adequate food and water as the canteen inside serves only tea and some soft drinks.
Birds Spotted
Little Rann of Kutch
- Pied Avocet
- Common Crane
- Flamingos
- Purple Sunbird
- Black-headed Ibis
- Stilt
- Pied Kingfisher
- Spoonbill
- Greater Short-toed Lark
- Nightjar (flew past the bonnet near Malvan)
- Knob-billed Duck
- Caspian Tern
- Glossy Ibis
- Red-naped Ibis
- Ruddy Shellduck
- Northern Pintail
- Painted Stork
- Caspian Tern
- Spoonbill
- Indian Pond Heron
- Darter
- Purple Swamphen
- Indian Roller
- Green bee-eater
- Common Kingfisher
- Small Blue Kingfisher
- Yellow-crowned Woodpecker
- Lesser Goldenback
- Bee-eater
- Indian Thick Knee
- Common Hoopoe
- Bluethroat (F) (1st winter)
