Elephanta Caves

Captains Log 2023.1029

Elephanta (or Gharapuri as known locally), is a small island located off Mumbai’s east coast – broadly situated between JNPT and Mumbai Harbour. 

The island is home to cave temples predominantly dedicated to Lord Shiva. The caves have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Apart from the cave temples, the following add to the experience –

- Boat ride from Gateway of India to the Elephanta Island. 

The island is approximately an hour’s boat ride from Gateway of India. Ferry’s start at 9 am and continue until about 2 pm. For the return journey, Ferry’s start from the island at 2 pm until about 530 pm. The cost is about Rs. 260 for deluxe and Rs. 125 for an economy ferry – to-and-fro. The ticket counter in the morning deliberately (I think) start with the sale of deluxe tickets! The ferry’s in both cases seemed similar. I guess they cram more people in the economy ferry. All payments in cash. No cards, no UPI!

For me the boat ride to the island is the most interesting bit. Apart from the cool sea breeze, you get a super view of the Gateway and the Taj, naval and commercial ships docked along the Mumbai Harbour, an assortment of commercial ships anchored off the coast, Butcher Island with its oil tanks and its sundry jetty’s, sea gulls, small fish skipping off the waters and a good view of the ever-changing Mumbai skyline. As you approach the islands’ jetty, the new trans-harbour bridge connecting Mumbai and Navi-Mumbai comes into view.

I wish the ferry’s started plying earlier, say 630 am. This would add morning sunrise view to the experience and help complete the to-and-fro outing in the cooler part of the day. 

- Climb up to the caves.

There’s a toy train that run’s from the island’s jetty for about a km to the base of the climb up to the caves for about Rs. 10. I think this is best avoided. It’s better to take a leisurely walk and take in the flora fauna of the island.

A Gram panchayat fee needs to be paid at the base, then another fee at the caves entrance. A visit to the loo requires a tip. All of this could have been combined to make it easier for everybody. All payments in cash. No cards, no UPI!

The funds being collected though, may either be inadequate or are not being managed diligently as most of the track is lined with plastic bottles and packets.

Stairs made of solid rock blocks lead up to the caves. It takes about 20 minutes from the base to get up to the caves. The stairs are lined with shops selling eatables, souvenirs and other nick-nacks.  

A non-vegetarian joint on the left of the stairs seemed to be the local favourite – judging by the full tables. MTDC seems to have a stay option.

You have to be super careful of the monkeys in the area. They will very easily snatch any eatable in sight and even water bottles!

- Mini trails  

A left before the entrance to the caves will take you down to a lake – birders will generally like this route. This would be about a 20 minute walk.

A right before the entrance will take you up to cannon hill – two large cannons placed so as to overlook the east and west of the island. This would be about a 15-20 minute climb.